Видео

the third sentence is the big reason to NOT buy this.

​@@timallison8560 It is a Code every shower faucet has to be Temperature and Pressure balanced. Thus, what ever third sentence says is completely irrelevant. If the Tank Booster fails, shower faucet will balance hot and cold water and user won't even notice hot water output from the water heater

The recirculation pump is why your bill is higher. It's essentially heating all the hot water pipes in your home instead of just heating the tank. The benefit is that you'll use less water as you no longer need to wait approximately 30 seconds for hot water to arrive for your shower while cold/warm water is running down the drain.

Risk of scalding,in MA. code states that the hot water coming out of the tap has to be in the 120 degree range.

set it by turning one way or another while testing the closest faucet.. i would assume loosening the screw (turn counter clockwise) would bring more cold water in... if all faucets have changed i would ask if it is cold out and if yes/ does your cold water vary temp a lot from winter to summer and if yes/ did you set the valve in the winter or summer/ if answer is yes set it in summer then the fix would be get a permanent marker and mark it now across the screw and onto the housing at 12oclock then start adjustment for the closest sink or faucet once set make the second mark on the housing in line with the line on the screw you made before.... congratulations you now have a winter and summer setting on your device that should have been thrown out and replaced with a proper temp controlled mixing device.

Yes, it has a connection port for the circulating pump line

Well my hot water is set to 135, my booster (a Honeywell), reduces the temperature so that I do not need to add cold water for any shower or bath. My 50 gal capacity tank has never run out of hot water for my house with 2 kitchens, 6 BR 5 1/2 baths and two laundry rooms for my multigenerational family. Previously, I had an 80 gallon tank.

Your first mistake is listening to a home inspector.

@@mikegribben4549 great comment!

I was wondering that...is this standard in cold places like wisconsin?

Never done any commercial work I take it.

What about beside a power vent?

@@jasonhessels Power vent water heaters are PVC vented and do not get hot enough to cause degradation.

Hybrid is like same price as tankless almost but only 6 year warranty maybe try 75 gallon with a tank booster that should be 90 gallons

Shark Bites are amazing, they sell them at any Home Depot. No more measuring & cutting exact new copper pipe to connect by soldering or welding copper pipe, adapters & elbows. Just screw the bendable ( Shark-bites ) to your water heater then clean the cooper pipe about a 1/2 inch were you cut off the old one off and push the other end of the ( Shark bite ) on to the copper pipe and then it clamps down hard on the pipe, hence the name ( Shark Bite ) and does not let go. You would have to cut to get it off once it’s locked on to the copper pipe. It’s pretty cool and saves a lot of time from the old way

Shark bites are garbage, pro pess all the way

Anthony Merc yes it’s code required

If you know what you are doing with sharkbites they are fine. Like anything else preparation is most important,

We did an entire home 15 years ago shark bite, not one leak, at least yet!

@@suspicionofdeceit glad to hear it, it must have been pricey ( more pricey than buying a crimp tool for sure. Long use sharkbite fails fairly spectacularly. Where i live is pretty hard water, the o rings get destroyed by calcium and magnesium and fail, when they do its sudden and a gusher of a leak. I hope yours continue to hold, but for reference last year i replaced sharkbite failures done by homeowners in 4 seperate instances, one was bad install ( they took the ferrule stiffener out and the pex walked out, the other 3 failed as i mentioned

wow...I have a similar "booster" but you would need to have a thermostat. This booster and mine are mechanical set to add a standard flow of coldwater to the hot water. If the water coming out of the tank had temperature variations, it wouldn't be very effective.

@@Al_Z.Heimer correct and some of us have a large swing in temps with seasonal inlet/cold water temps. I sent you a link on another comment section it has the abilities you might be looking for and can be used with your old style mixing valve tank booster.

the idea is to get 60 gallons of 120F water from a 20gallong tank but the unit itself isnt designed for the application due to inlet/cold water temp swings winter to summer as well if your power was off for some time you would get even less all the ay to NO hot water from an electric tank. the device is for boilers to mix 180F water with mains water for storage or hydronic systems where variance of mains temps are generally accounted for in the system. I could see this being used with solar heat exchangers that are storing water for domestic uses also but it is straight mechanical and we have proper mixing valves that work by temp now so why bother with this old device at all. I agree it isnt a booster and it saves nothing it only makes a tank act like its a bit larger and likely stresses other parts like the thermostat, elements, and TPS valves right to their breaking points as well as poses risks of severe burns if the cold side clogs or someone acidently blows the TPS valve or breaks a pipe near tank. To many what ifs. The manufacturers generally know best less it is a manual from china your reading.

Tank booster.. it includes the gage, valve, knob, tube...

Pretty much LOL If you don't have little kids, there is no need to keep hot water at 120 degrees.

This is supposed to allow you to turn up the heater t-stats and store hotter water (140 deg) in the tanks while only sending "standard" 120 deg to the faucet. Due to new regulations the tank companies stopped making larger tanks so, for example people who had a now nonexistent 65 gallon tank have to replace it with a 50 gallon tank if something happens to the 65. It does give you more HW time at an increased cost. Also, going to 140F is safety issue as it keeps legionella from forming (150F kills it)

This uses quite a bit more energy. Maintaining the tank at 150°F uses approximately 60% more energy than keeping your water temp at 120°F assuming an ambient temp of 70°F in the room where the water heater is located because the power consumption to maintain temp is proportional to the delta-T. The national average in the USA is currently $561 per year in electric cost. With this system it would be much more. Rather than install this system to increase your capacity, you would be better off buying an 80-gallon tank.

You obviously don't have a clue about how great sharkbite fittings are. They are expensive but very high quality and work great !

They are great when you cannot completely isolate the water.

George Clift your right. To go bigger now you have to buy commercial with a smaller warranty and cost a lot. Not to mention not everybody has the room where their current 50 gallon electric is to put anything bigger. Also, for those reading this saying I have an 80 gallon electric, the govt did away with them 2 years ago.

@@DP-cg5lf oh no... I actually have TWO 80-gallon electrics about 15-years old that I'd like to replace. What are the options today? Tankless isn't an option for me, due to electrical constraints.

Why would you need this much hot water?

But with the tank set around 120° you can have harmful bacteria in the tank . By using a valve like this you can set the tank to 140° but adjust the outlet temperature lower thereby killing bacteria in the tank and not scalding people. It also effectively gives you more hot water

hmm mixing valves have been around forever and tested?

Scott Hill can't open his mind to understand this simple concept.

The goal is to get to get a lot of water at 120 degrees.

This is a simple concept Scott. Simple test to prove concept: fill a mug full to the very top with 150 degree water... Now, pour in cold water until the temperature of the water is 120 degrees... Did the glass hold all the water, or was the final quantity of water greater than the total capacity of the glass? It's that simple. This is a great way to increase the amount of hot water you have without increasing the size of your tank. Will it be more efficient? Maybe... Maybe not. It's about convenience.

I too am an ME. This is supposed to allow you to turn up the heater t-stats and store hotter water (140 deg) in the tanks while only sending "standard" 120 deg to the faucet. Due to new regulations the tank companies stopped making larger tanks so, for example people who had a now nonexistent 65 gallon tank have to replace it with a 50 gallon tank if something happens to the 65. It does give you more HW time at an increased cost. Also, going to 140F is safety issue as it keeps legionella from forming (150F kills it). Recommend adding extra insulation.

That's why your name is 'Jack' because your know Jack Shit. Commentator is an Australian.

Ancestry.com is in order! A lot of australians come from english people who were banned from the country. HAHAHAHHAHA. this is funny

Moonpie Spotlight I believe youre missing the point - one of these adds hot water to the cold water supply, so the heater doesn’t have to work as hard/long to get the hot water up to temp.

It's not about getting the desired temp because as you said that happens at the tap anyway, it's about extending the usable hot water in your tank. Without this, to get warm temperature "X" at the faucet, you will use more of the liquid in your hot water tank, with this you use less, because the water in the tank can be kept much hotter so temp "X" can be achieved with mostly cold water and a little hot tank water. The idea is to make the usable hot water last longer.

They work well. I have several at the facility I manage. Much larger versions but the principle is the same

Prime example of why your ordinary person needs to leave plumbing alone. Doesn't grasp the concept at all.

+lazaro lopez yeah, I'm not sure what the justification is for the environmental claims, I certainly can't think of any.

NO . when the water is hotter you use less hot water and more cold water .

But a higher temperature in the water tank increases the rate of heat loss to the surroundings. This is basic physics: Newton's Law of Cooling states that the rate of change of the temperature of an object is proportional to the difference between its own temperature and the ambient temperature. The tank will lose more heat to its surroundings the hotter it is maintained at.

You are correct, raising the temperature costs more - though I think in the end, it is cheaper to go this route, than to get a larger tank. PS. you could add a thermal blanket to help reduce energy loss

@@SmalltimR thermal blanket does nothing, tanks are already insulated and primary losses are stack and jacket ( pipes and vents) this is a cheaper option to increase useable water if you lack space to increase the size of the tank. On demand heater us the more expensive and better option

I used one of the types right at my RV shower and put in 12v recirculating pump. I ran the pump for 1 minute before showering. Lost zero water getting into a nice shower with 1/2 gpm shower head, just turned it on to soap and rinse. Really extended my water supply.

HomeDepot sells these things. Every one I saw on the shelf at HomeDepot had been opened and returned. There must be a reason why people are returning these things..... As in they do NOT work.